Designer

Jeffrey Bilgore

THE GEMOLOGIST:
Having a love for gems but no family tradition in the trade I understood the need to condense generations of learning. I gained professional training which took me well beyond any graduate gemologist diploma. My work at the American Gemological Laboratories the world’s premier gemological laboratory specializing in colored gemstones, gave me a priceless foundation. I analyzed gems for identification, grading for quality, detection of treatments, and determination of country of origin, all in one place and at the highest level. This experience gives me a perspective few gemologists in the world ever achieve. 

The things I got to see and savior, it was like working in King Solomon’s mines.

 In the gem lab I began an advanced study of gemstone cutting, working with the renowned master gem cutter Reggie Miller. The diamond world has its ‘Ideal Cut’, and I wanted to explore and develop its equivalent for colored stones. The entire experience with Miller was like getting a Master’s Degree in the art of gem cutting.

GEM EXPLORER – PROCURER OF THE EXQUISITE:
I went from professional gemologist to professional gem buyer. I was the gem buyer for HENRY BIRKS JEWELERS whose companies included the carriage firms of Shreve, Crump & Low, J.E. Caldwell’s, C.D. Peacock, Shreve & Co., and J. Jessop’s. Looking back I must say buying for some of Americas best stores sharpened my taste and taught me the needs of retailers and their best clients.

THE LAST BUILDING BLOCK:
The next 16 years, I was privileged to work  at OSCAR HEYMAN & BROTHERS, one of the oldest and most prestigious American jewelry manufacturing firms. Behind the scenes I bought gems for Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels, Graff, and many other of the most sought after jewelry brands. As Oscar Heyman’s primary Gem Buyer, I travelled the world, developing close relationships and procuring the finest gems. Here I continued to learn by doing at the highest levels. Each day refining and defining both my design and fabrication skills – mastering the execution of excellence.